Washing Machine Repair - Basic Diagnosis and Repair Cost

Last updated on October 20th, 2024

Washing machine repair might feel daunting, but with a bit of understanding, many common issues can be identified and even solved by beginners. Issues like resolving drainage problems or addressing filling issues are often resolvable without professional help. However, more advanced problems, such as motor controller malfunctions or worn-out bearings, usually require the skills of a technician. In Australia, a service call typically costs between $150 and $200, with parts and labour adding to the expense.

This guide aims to help you identify some of the most frequent washing machine repair problems. While it provides simple troubleshooting steps, it’s essential to know when it’s time to call a technician—washing machines can be more intricate than they seem. This guide is not exhaustive, it covers around 95% of issues and serves as a practical starting point to help you evaluate the problem, decide if a washing machine repair is worth it, and get a sense of what the costs might be depending on the symptoms.

Are Parts Even Available?

Before scheduling your washing machine for repair with a professional, it’s important to first identify the potential issue using this guide and checking whether replacement parts are available for your washing machine model. If your machine is older or from a budget brand, finding parts might be impossible. You don’t want to spend $150 on a service call, only to discover that parts can’t be sourced.

To locate your washing machine’s model number, check these common spots:

Inside the door: Look for a label on the frame or around the door.
Back of the machine: Some models have the information plate on the back, typically near the top.
User manual: The model number is usually listed in the manual that came with your machine.

Once you have the model number, search online or contact a parts supplier to see if parts are still available. This simple step can save you from unnecessary costs down the line.

Washing Machine Does Not Drain

One of the most common washing machine repair issues is that the washing machine does not drain. The causes differ between front-loaders and top loaders, so let’s break them down.

Top loader Washing Machine Does Not Drain

For top loaders, pump failure is the most common reason for drainage issues. Since top loaders don’t have filters like front loaders (at least not in Australia), they cannot become blocked. By a process of elimination, the drain pump is usually the culprit. Short of tipping the machine over, or using an external pump, there is no way to remove the water if the pump has failed.

Front Loader Washing Machine Does Not Drain

Sometimes this issue is described as – washing machine won’t drain or spin – but it is the same issue as the washing machine does not drain. The washing machine won’t spin because the machine has detected it has too much water inside, or too much weight or both. So it won’t spin because it won’t drain.

When a front loader washing machine does not drain, the problem is almost always a blocked drain pump filter or clogged drain pump. The most common culprits are small items left in pockets, usually coins, hairpins, band-aids, hair ties, nails, and screws. Rarely it can be a blocked drain hose. Here’s what to check.

Check the Door Boot

Push aside the rubber seal (door boot) with your hand and check for any small items near the bottom. Checking the door boot gives you a good idea of whether its more likely to be a failed pump or a blocked filter or obstructed pump. If you find bits and bobs in the door boot, its more likely you have a blocked filter than a failed pump.

Check the Drain Pump Filter

We’ve written a detailed guide about why you shouldn’t usually remove the drain pump filter and how to do it correctly if you must. This is one of those times where removing the filter is necessary. Be mindful that removing the drain pump filter will release all of the water in the machine and can go pear shaped easily and may require a service call if it all goes wrong. Often the drain pump filter will get jammed half out, impossible to screw back in and impossible to remove.

Recovering Clothes from a Front Loader Washing Machine that Does Not Drain

If your washing machine doesn’t drain, the door will likely remain locked due to the water inside. Follow the steps below to retrieve your clothes:

Manually drain the water: Locate the small drain hose or access panel at the bottom of the washer. It’s usually next to the filter. Remove the hose plug and place a shallow tray or towel underneath, and slowly drain the water out.
Open the door: Once most of the water is drained, turn the washing machine on, and try opening the door. If it’s still locked, wait for a few minutes and try again.
Use the Emergency Release: If the door still won’t open you need to use the emergency release mechanism. It’s usually a plastic strap with a loop at its end. Pull down on this strip while pulling on the door, and the door should open. You may need to pull hard and sometimes a second person to pull the door while you pull the loop can help. Your washer may have a different mechanism, refer to the user manual or search online for specific instructions using your washers model number.
Remove the clothes: After opening the door, carefully remove your clothes. They may be wet and heavy, so have a towel ready to manage any extra water.

Blowing Down the Drain Hose

If cleaning the filter doesn’t resolve the issue, the blockage may be deeper in the pump or hoses, which usually requires professional assistance. One unpleasant and unhygienic but often effective technique is to blow forcefully into the end of the drain hose to dislodge the blockage.

Faulty Drain Pump

If you didn’t find any obstruction its likely that you have a faulty drain pump. To check, once you’ve replaced the drain pump filter, try running the washing machine on an empty cycle. It’s a good idea to repeat the process a few times and monitor the machine closely to ensure it doesn’t overflow or flood. If the washer drains properly during these test runs, it’s likely that the initial problem was a drain pump filter blockage, and the issue may be resolved.

Keep in mind that drain pump failures can often be intermittent, meaning the problem might return later. If the machine stops draining again after a few successful cycles or doesn’t drain at all, it’s time to replace the drain pump.

Replacing the Drain Pump on Top Loaders and Front Loaders

Replacing the pump on frontloaders and toploaders is usually pretty straightforward once the water has been removed. It can be attempted DIY. Almost always located underneath the machine, a few hose clamps, a few screws or clips, and a couple of spade plugs to remove. Use your model number to search online for specific instructions. There can be some nuance to installing the new pump, so factor in some fiddling time and needing to take the appliance apart again after doing it wrong the first time.

Washing Machine Repair Cost When it Does Not Drain

Replacement drain pump: $20 – $100
Professional drain pump and filter inspection including service call: $150 – $250
Professional drain pump replacement including parts and service call with aftermarket part: $150 – $300

Washing Machine Leaking (Not Flooding)

A small leak or drip can be tricky to diagnose, especially without experience. Here’s my pro tip: Don’t assume the water is leaking from the side where you see it. Unless your machine is perfectly level (which it probably isn’t), a small drip can cling to the underside and travel along the machine in any direction before falling off elsewhere.

Hose Connection Issues: Washing Machine Leaking from Tap or Back

If you’ve recently moved or your washing machine is leaking from the tap, the hose connections are often the culprits but it can be the taps themselves too. Over time, the rubber washers in the ends of the hoses can deteriorate, causing leaks. Washing machine hoses themselves rarely fail, but the washers in the ends of the hoses frequently deteriorate, causing leaks. Manufacturers recommend replacing water supply hoses every five years, so if yours are older, it might be time to replace them. Here’s how to diagnose and confirm the source of the leak.

Turn the washing machine off at the taps.
Leave the taps off for three days, and make sure the area underneath the machine has dried out.
If the area doesn’t dry out when the tap is off, the tap itself is probably faulty, likely needing its spindle O-ring replaced, along with the washer and fibre washer. Repair the tap, then repeat the test.
Turn the taps back on.
Check every few hours to see if the leak has reoccurred. If it does, the hoses are either faulty or not tightened correctly.
If it does not resolve then your hoses and taps are likely ok and the leak is elsewhere.

Washing Machine Repair Cost for Bad Hoses and or Tap Repair

Replacement washing machine inlet hoses X 2 : $20 – $50
Professional diagnosis and replacement of washing machine hoses including service call and parts: $150 – $200
DIY repair leaking tap X 2: $5 – $50
Plumber to repair leaking taps X 2including service call and parts: $100 – $200

Leaking Drain Pump Filter - Frontloaders Only

If you’ve recently removed the drain pump filter, the rubber seal can get pinched when you replace it, and dirt could prevent a proper seal, causing a leak. The leak will originate from the drain pump filter housing, but it may give the impression of the washing machine leaking from underneath, as water can cling to the bottom of the machine and drip elsewhere. Remove the filter, clean the rubber seal (a toothbrush works well), and replace it, then check again. If the drain pump filter is leaking the washing machine will leak in use and for an hour or two after the cycle has finished.

Washing Machine Repair Cost for Leaking Drain Pump Filter

Replacement drain pump filter: $20-$50
Professional diagnosis and replacement of drain pump filter including service call and parts: $150-$200

Washing Machine Leaking from Door - Frontloaders Only

Take these steps to work out why your washing machine might be leaking from the door.

Clean the Door Seal: Dirt or debris can prevent a proper door seal, leading to a leak that appears to be coming from underneath the door. Clean both the door seal and the back of the door thoroughly to ensure that nothing is obstructing the seal. If you notice water trickling down the front of the machine from underneath the door, the door is likely not sealing correctly.
Inspect the Door Seal: While cleaning the door boot, thoroughly inspect it for rips or tears. Even a small tear can cause a leak, especially if it’s on the lower part of the seal. If you find any damage, you’ll likely need to replace the washing machine door seal to prevent further leaks. Replacing a door seal is straightforward for a professional, but it’s generally beyond the skill level of most DIYers and usually requires removing the entire front face of the washing machine.
Inspect the Door: A cracked door hinge can also cause a leak from the door. To check for this, run your hand across the hinge area -cracks are often easier to feel than to see. If the door droops or needs lifting to close, this is a common symptom of a cracked door hinge, which can affect the door’s ability to seal properly, leading to leaks.

If cleaning the seal and checking the door haven’t resolved the issue, the next area to check is the detergent dispenser, as excess detergent can also cause leaks that can appear to be from the door.

Washing Machine Repair Cost when Leaking from Door

Professional replacement of door seal including service call and parts: $300 – $400
Professional replacement of cracked door including service call and parts: $200 – $300

Washing Machine Leaking from Detergent Drawer – Frontloaders Only

Worn out water inlet valves, particularly on Fisher and Paykel front loaders, can also cause small spurts of water from the detergent dispenser. This can also make it look like the door is leaking, as the water may flow into the door cutout and down to the bottom middle, or straight down the face of the machine. Diagnosing this means watching the machine through a full cycle to catch the leak in action – be patient, and try not to get distracted, or you’ll have to start over! This condition can also be caused by a blocked vent pipe on the detergent dispenser. While these issues are more DIY friendly, the diagnosis is a bit more nuanced, and you should consider professional assistance so you don’t waste time and money on the wrong diagnosis.

Excess detergent use can cause leaks from the detergent dispenser, especially with powdered detergents. If the detergennt drawer has too much detergent in it, the water can backup during filling and cause it to overflow. Most machines have overflow ports that direct excess water from the detergent dispenser down the inside wall of the washing machine, leading to a washing machine leaking from underneath. Let the area underneath the machine dry out and try running the washer with less detergent and see if it was just a one off.

Washing Machine Repair Cost when Leaking from Detergent Drawer

Professional replacement of water valve including service call: $200 – $350

Time to Call a Professional

If you’ve gone through these steps and haven’t had much success, it might be time to consider calling a professional. What we’ve covered above addresses 95% of all problems. The remaining 5% consist of countless small issues that rarely occur, leaving you chasing shadows—and that can be costly to fix due to labour expenses. Sometimes, that in itself is the information you need to make a decision about whether you should devote resources to repairing your washing machine.

Washing Machine Flooding

The first step when dealing with any flooding is to press stop or pause the machine. If the water continues to come turn off the machine, unplug it, and, most importantly, turn off the water supply. If the taps to the machine are difficult to access, locate your water meter and shut off the water from there. Without a water source, the flooding will stop.

Pressure Switch Issues

Flooding can happen due to a fault with the water measurement system. Most machines use a simple system that continuously calls for water until it gets feedback that enough water has filled the drum. Part of this mechanism includes a small rubber or plastic pipe inside the washing machine that connects to a pressure switch. If the small air pressure pipe that measures water levels falls off the pressure switch, or a hole wears through the tube, the washing machine never receives a signal to stop filling, and the machine can flood. While there’s sometimes a safety mechanism to prevent this, it may not kick in immediately.

In front loaders, this issue commonly occurs when the tub moves violently due to an out of balance load, yanking the pipe off the pressure switch.
In top loaders, the problem tends to develop over time as a small hole is worn into the pressure pipe through repeated rubbing over many years. It is so small you cannot see it.

Sometime the pressure switch is integrated into the main control board, so if theres an issue with it, the whole control board needs to be replaced – usually an expensive part.

Washing Machine Repair Cost when there are pressure switch issues

Replacement pressure tube: $10 – $40
Replacement pressure switch: $20 – $50
Professional replacement of pressure switch and pressure tube including service call: $200 – $300
Professional replacement of main board with integrated pressure switch including service call: $300 – $400

Drain Hose Issues

If the drain hose isn’t properly secured it can fall out of the drain sink or stand pipe. When the washing machine begins to drain, water will now be pumped all over the floor instead of down the drain

Worse – improper drain hose height can cause a siphoning effect. If the drain pipe isn’t high enough, the machine may start siphoning water straight through itself, without the drain pump needing to activate. Water will now flow directly from the water supply, through the machine, and out the drain hose continuously, resulting in a persistent flood – until with some luck the washing machine will have a safety. Often this condition manifests in a “no tap” error which ultimately stops the flood when the washing machine thinks its not receiving water from the inlet. While the results of this condition can be pretty catastrophic the fix is pretty easy. Replace the drain hose into the outlet and secure it properly.

Flooding can also occur if the sewer pipe is blocked or if the sink’s plughole becomes clogged with debris and lint, where the drain hose empties. If the water has nowhere to go, it will back up and cause flooding around the machine or out of the sink.

Door Opening Mid Cycle - Frontloaders Only

A faulty door lock can cause the door to open mid-cycle, leading to water spilling out. Often, the washing machine will continue the cycle blissfully unaware of the issue, calling for more water as it floods all over the floor. This tends to be an intermittent problem, and if it happens once, it’s likely to happen again. If you were lucky enough to experience only minor flooding the first time, don’t press your luck by continuing to use the machine. It will need a new door switch before it can be safely used again.

In rare cases, this issue can also be caused by a faulty control board, though this is a much more expensive repair. If you absolutely cannot risk the door opening mid cycle again, replacing both the control board and the door switch is the safest option – though most technicians would consider this as unnecessary and excessive in most cases.

Washing Machine Repair Cost with Door Opening Mid Cycle

Replacement door lock: $20 – $50
Replacement main board: $100 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock including service call and parts: $150 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock and main board including service call and parts: $300 – $500

Washing Machine Noisy on Spin

A noisy washing machine on spin is almost always caused by poor stability or bad bearing.

A Rhythmic Knocking Sound is Usually Poor Stability

If you’re hearing a rhythmic knocking noise when the machine is spinning the clothes, its usually because the machine is not sitting correctly, and the machine is able to rock, but it can also be caused by faulty suspension in a front loader washing machine.

As theres a lot of bad information out there, It’s important to note that your machine doesn’t need to be perfectly level. As long as the machine looks level, that’s good enough. What really matters is that the machine is stable.

Check that the washing machine isn’t making contact with anything that can rattle like a broom, clothes horse or ironing board. Nothing should be touching or on the washing machine.
Run the machine empty: If the thudding is significantly lessened this points to a rocking washer.
Test stability: Apply pressure to one corner of the machine, or even sit on it. If the noise stops or reduces, unstable footing is the issue, and you may need to adjust the feet or address the floor.
Check the feet: Inspecting the feet can be tricky since the washer is sitting on them. However, try to feel for any wear or damage, especially to the rubber. This is particularly important after a recent move, as the feet can easily get damaged if the washer has been dragged. The rubber feet will also deteriorate over time as well, hardening and less effectively dampening sound and movement.
Adjust the feet as necessary: The feet can usually be adjusted by screwing them in or out. Sometimes they rust in place though especially the left hand front foot. A spanner or shifter may be required.

Washing Machine Repair Cost doe to Poor Stability

4 X Replacement washing machine feet: $40
Professional replacement of washing machine feet including service call: $200 – $300

Bad Suspension - Front Loader Washing Machine Only

For front loader washing machines, a worn shock absorber, though relatively rare, can result in rhythmic knocking during the spin cycle similarly to a poorly levelled machine as above. A front loader with a bad shock absorber – or shock absorbers – will be much more prone to vibrating and even “walking” around your laundry, as its ability to absorb vibration and shocks during spin is diminished. In worst cases they can even smash walls and knock themselves onto their sides. This is more likely to happen in older machines or those that frequently run heavy loads.

Washing Machine Repair Cost with Bad Suspension

Replacement shock absorbers: $50 – $150
Professional replacement of shock absorbers including service call: $200 – $300

If it Sounds Like a Jet it's Usually the Bearings

Bearing noise and instability noise sound completely different. For simplicity’s sake, if you’ve ruled out stability issues and your washing machine is still noisy during the spin cycle, it’s most likely that the main bearing is failing. Unfortunately, replacing bearings is typically not cost-effective, as it can be an expensive repair and may lead to additional issues. In most cases, it’s better to consider replacing the machine rather than calling a professional to repair the bearings. Bearing replacement is a difficult labour intensive job and potentially calls for expensive parts like the drum or basket to be replaced. There’s also a lot that can go wrong and a good chance that your washing machine repair won’t last.

Bearings that have worn out or corroded due to water exposure often cause significant noise. Here’s what to look for:

Listen for a constant, loud noise: The faster the spin, the louder it becomes – often compared to a jet engine.
Has the washing machine become louder on spin than it was when you first got it? If the washing machine has become significantly louder, its likely the main bearing is failing. You should be able to stand next to a properly functioning washing machine on spin and have a conversation without shouting. If the noise has increased significantly, the bearings are likely corrorded or worn out.
Check for recent overflows: If you have a front-loader washing machine that has recently overflowed, this can be a catalyst for bearing failure, as water may have leaked into the bearings during the overflow.
Look for grease marks: Black or brown grease stains on your clothes suggest the bearing is leaking grease.
Understand the long term risks: If left unfixed, the drum can eventually separate from the basket, making it impossible for the machine to spin. This failure usually occurs within months but can take years, depending on the severity of the bearing wear. It’s also important to note that if the noise is due to water damaged bearings, the bearings can completely seize, especially if used infrequently, locking the drum in place, never to turn again.

Washing Machine Repair Cost due to Bad Main Bearing (Professional Only)

Replace washing machine main bearing and other parts as required: $500 – $1000

Washing Machine Leaving Marks on Clothes

If your washing machine is leaving marks on your clothes, there are two steps you should take to diagnose the issue:

First, deep clean your washing machine: Over time, mould, detergent residue, and grime can build up inside the drum and other parts of the machine, staining your clothes. We have a detailed guide on how to deep clean your washing machine, and you can follow the link here. This process will help remove any mould, detergent buildup, or other contaminants to real it out as the cause.
Check for greasy marks: If you’ve deep cleaned the machine and you’re still getting marks—particularly greasy stains that resemble car grease—it’s likely that the main bearing is leaking grease and beginning to fail. This grease can leak into the drum and mark your clothes.

Bearings that are wearing out will eventually lead to more serious issues, as outlined in the previous section. While the machine may keep running for a while, the drum will often separate, and you’ll likely continue seeing greasy stains on your clothes. Eventually, the washer may abruptly refuse to spin. If you notice greasy marks and the machine is getting louder during the spin cycle, it almost certainly requires replacement bearings, which, as discussed earlier, typically aren’t worth replacing.

Washing Machine Repair Cost due to Bad Main Bearing (Professional Only)

Replace washing machine main bearing and other parts as required: $500 – $1000

Washing Machine Won’t Spin, Turn, or Is Giving Excessive Out of Balance Errors

First, let’s distinguish between two issues:

Won’t turn: The drum refuses to rotate at all.
Won’t spin: The drum turns but won’t go into the high-speed spin cycle.

Let’s walk through the most common causes of both.

Washing Machine Won't Turn

A broken drum spider is a common issue in older Samsung and LG models and can prevent the drum from turning entirely. The drum spider supports the drum, and if it breaks, the machine may suffer serious internal damage. This issue is often too costly to repair due to the extent of the damage.
Motor or Motor Controller Issues: If the motor or motor controller fails, the drum may stop turning completely. If the motor isn’t receiving the correct signals or has worn out, professional repair or motor/controller replacement may be required.

Washing Machine Repair Cost when washing machine won’t turn

Replacement motor controller: $100 – $250
Replacement motor: $100 – $250
Professional replacement of door spider including service call and parts: $300 – $400
Professional replacement of motor controller or main board including service call and parts: $300 – $400
Professional replacement of motor including service call and parts: $300 – $500

Washing Machine Won't Spin

Overloading and Uneven Loads: One of the most common reasons for a washer refusing to spin is an overloaded or uneven load. This is especially common in front-loaders, where an imbalanced load can prevent the spin cycle from starting. Try redistributing the clothes or reducing the load size to resolve this issue.
Bad Motor Brushes, common in older models, can stop the drum from turning or spinning. In a brushed motor, brushes transfer electrical current to the motor, and when they wear out, the motor will lose power, causing it to stop working. A motor typically has one brush for turning at slow speed and one brush for spinning at high speed. Usually the high speed brush wears out first, but not necessarily. Brushes should be replaced in pairs but that won’t always be what has happened in the past.
Drainage Issues: A washing machine that won’t drain properly can also stop spinning. Excess water remaining in the drum adds weight, preventing the machine from spinning. Refer above to Washing Machine Does Not Drain.
Shock Absorber and Suspension Problems – Top loader washing machines only: In top loaders, shock absorber and suspension issues are more common over time. If the machine frequently gives out of balance errors, the suspension components may be worn out, especially if the machine seems to be capable of managing smaller and smaller spins as time goes by. In a front loader washing machine suspension issues are much rarer and unlikely to directly interfere with the spin cycle. Suspension issues in a front loader washing machine are much more likely to lead to a very loud washing machine that walks around the room.
Control Board and Motor Controller issues commonly seen in Samsung and LG machines, spinning problems are typically accompanied by the E3 error code. This code generally indicates that the control board needs to be replaced as a result of fractured solder joints. While this issue is common with these brands, any washer with a malfunctioning control board or motor controller can refuse to spin.

Washing Machine Repair Cost when washing machine won’t spin

Replacement motor brushes: $10-$50
Replacement motor controller: $100 – $250
Replacement motor: $100 – $250
Replacement shock absorbers: $50 – $150
Professional replacement of motor brushes including service call and parts: $200 – $300
Professional replacement of shock absorbers including service call and parts: $200 – $300
Professional replacement of door spider including service call and parts: $300 – $400
Professional replacement of motor controller or main board including service call and parts: $300 – $400
Professional replacement of motor including service call and parts: $300 – $500

Washing Machine Door Locked

If your washing machine won’t open theres a few possible causes – either you have a drainage issue, and the door won’t unlock because the water level is too high, or there

Wait for the Cycle to Finish

A washing machine door that won’t open is typically an easy and cheap washing machine repair. Most washing machines automatically lock the door or lid during the wash cycle and remain locked until the cycle is completely finished. Some washing machines will unlock the door or lid if paused during the cycle but only if certain conditions are met, usually:

The water level is low enough
The water temperature isn’t too hot
The machine isn’t spinning.

If your washing machine was interrupted mid cycle, the door may stay locked until the cycle has been completed.

Power Failure

If there is a power outage or tripped breaker mid cycle, the door may remain locked even with the appliance off. Once power is restored, turn the washing machine on, and see if the door unlocks. If not, select your machines shortest cycle, usually spin or rinse, and let the cycle complete. If the door still will not unlock there may be a more significant problem.

Drainage Issues – Front Loaders Only

If there’s still water in the drum, the door will usually remain locked to prevent water flooding out into your laundry. Try running a drain or spin cycle to empty the water, or letting the cycle complete if you have stopped the machine before the cycle completes. If the water will not drain refer above to Washing Machine Does Not Drain.

Faulty Door Lock

The door lock mechanism can wear out or fail, especially in front loaders. This can prevent the door from locking or unlocking even when the machine has finished its cycle.

For front loaders you can manually unlock the door using the machine’s manual release feature located in the same compartment as the drain pump filter. Top loaders usually do not have an emergency or manual release. The release mechanism is usually a plastic strap with a loop at its end. Pull down on this strip while pulling on the door, and the door should open. You may need to pull hard and sometimes a second person to pull the door while you pull the loop can help. Your washer may have a different mechanism, refer to the user manual or search online for specific instructions using your washers model number.

A bad door lock can sometimes take the main control board with it, so if replacing the door lock doesn’t remedy the situation, the control board may – in rare cases – also need replacement.

Washing Machine Repair Cost with Washing Machine Door Locked

Replacement door lock: $20-$50
Replacement control board: $100 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock including service call and parts: $150 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock and control board including service call and parts: $300 – $500

Washing Machine Won't Turn On or Won't Start

If your washing machine won’t start, there are several potential causes to consider, ranging from simple fixes to more complex electrical issues.

Keylock or Child Locked Washing Machine

If your washing machine turns on but is otherwise unresponsive, you might want to check that it hasn’t been keylocked. Nearly all washing machines have a keylock feature that disables all of the buttons as a safety feature to prevent children from interacting with the washing machine. A machine is usually keylocked by pressing and holding one or more buttons together for a few seconds. To check if your machine is keylocked, look for a button that reads keylock, child lock, or features a symbol of a padlock. Press and hold the keylock button or buttons until you hear a beep or some indication that the machine has done something. Check to see if you can now interact with the controls.

Power Issues

Ensure that the washing machine is properly plugged in and that the outlet is working. Try plugging another device into the same outlet to confirm power is being supplied. A USB charger and phone is often a handy way to check. If the outlet isn’t providing power, check your home’s circuit breaker to see if a fuse has blown or if the breaker has tripped. If you have just moved into a new home, sometimes there is another switch that needs to be on, usually to an exhaust fan, for the power point to receive power.

Water Issues

Most washing machines won’t start if there’s no water supply or if the water pressure is too low. Ensure that the water taps are turned on and the hoses are securely connected. Some washing machines like FIsher and Paykel frontloaders will give an error “No Tap” if they aren’t receiving water. Also check to make sure the drain hose drain point is high enough so that the water isn’t just siphoning through the machine – ie. going straight from the tap through the machine and out the drain hose.

Door Lock Issues

As covered in greater detail in the previous section, a faulty door lock can fail resulting in not only a washing machine that won’t open, but also one that won’t lock. If the washing machine won’t close, neither will it start.

Washing Machine Repair Cost with Faulty Door Lock

Replacement door lock: $20-$50
Replacement control board: $100 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock including service call and parts: $150 – $250
Professional replacement of door lock and control board including service call and parts: $300 – $500

Button Issues

Sometimes the issue can be with the actual buttons themselves. Touch and mechanical buttons can fail making them non responsive. Sometimes you can spam the button and push it repeatedly to get a response.

Washing Machine Repair Cost with Button Issues

Replacement control board: $100 – $250
Replacement display or button replacement: $100 – $250
Professional replacement of main board including service call and parts: $250 – $400
Professional replacement of buttons or display including service call and parts: $250 – $400